This text belongs to the special Pleasures notebook
The small town in Alberta, which has barely a hundred permanent residents, used to be queen of coal and then practically became a ghost. Finally it comes back to life. Located along the David Thompson Highway at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, it promises a stark contrast to the large resorts tourists are accustomed to. On the way to a cutting diamond that can be discovered adventure by adventure.
At the end of the day we park the Jeep under large pine trees. On the grounds of Expanse Cottages, time is lost in the vast spaces. The beautiful Spoolmak, a newly renovated house assigned to us, is well equipped. And even if the neighboring houses are not far away, the configuration of the place makes you feel completely isolated in this dense forest. A landscape intersected by countless paths and populated by wolves, which we will hear howling most of the night.
In the early morning, the trees whose tops we can no longer see are bathed in a thick mist that is subtly pierced by the sun’s rays. Today we’ll explore the North Saskatchewan River for an inflatable raft ride. The scenic tour follows the stream and takes us from Banff National Park to the Kootenay Flats, further east. Our engaging guide, Ken Larlee, is an expert whose knowledge of the environment, the river and the ecosystems through which the river flows is unparalleled.
The territory we discover is hardly marked by people. Annabelle Oung, destination coordinator at Explore Nordegg & Abraham Lake, warned us. The area is virtually untouched and is gradually gaining interest from travelers looking for a different experience than what Canmore, Banff or Jasper have to offer. “Here we have access to the raw Rockies (designed by nature) and not to landscapes developed for tourists, as is the case at Lake Louise, for example. »
The descent ends at Abraham Lake, Alberta’s largest man-made lake, created in 1972 with the construction of the Bighorn Dam. We rush to take the road to enjoy a better view of this vast expanse of turquoise water that stretches for more than 30 kilometers. Here, visitors from all over the world stop in winter to photograph the spectacular gas bubbles trapped beneath the ice, produced by aquatic bacteria that expel methane.
Day two begins with Jerry Holik, co-owner of Nature’s Gateway, a luxury lodging resort he runs with his wife Tanya Koshowski. On our electric bike we go into the forest and follow the roads of the many old railways to the Taunton Bridge. The afternoon will be marked by a latte and a piece of cake at the Miners Café, known for its homemade desserts, ready to bake or eat on the spot. In a few weeks, when the tourist season starts, people will line up to taste the specialties: ginger, pear and bourbon, blueberries and mango or chocolate and peanut butter.
Before taking the road to Calgary, we follow a route along the old paths that surrounded the mine, where some remains still remain. When we leave this isolated village with an old soul, we exchange a few words with a retired couple. They are regulars who come from Edmonton to test their swing on the historic nine-hole golf course in downtown Nordegg. Disappointed to see us leave so quickly, they insisted, “We have to stay longer!” It’s the perfect place to stop time. »
Exceptional destination
A stop at Nordegg, a hidden gem that refuses to grow too fast, requires a little planning. We recommend doing your shopping in Banff, Calgary or Edmonton before heading to this jewel of the Rockies. At the Beehive Artisans Market you can get fresh fruit and vegetables, stored in a large refrigerated area. Right next door the gas station serves as a shop. There are excellent vacuum-packed meats, camping supplies and accessories. However, the food supply is limited and uneven.
The biggest challenge for tourists wanting to visit the place remains the lack of hotel accommodation, Annabelle Oung acknowledges. “Most of these are short-term rentals like Airbnb or Vrbo, which require a minimum of two nights. For some travelers it can be difficult to find what suits them. Nordegg is also a small hamlet, so the number of gites is limited. In the summer everything is generally fully booked quite far in advance,” she says.
A lot of
The Nordegg Heritage Center is one of Canada’s most comprehensive industrial museums. Nordegg is home to the former via ferrata from Alberta, made by Girth Hitch Guiding. It is also one of the few places where it is possible to fly over the Rockies by helicopter with the Rockies Heli company. Finally, the Nordegg Canteen is the starting and ending point of various activities. We stop there for a sandwich, fries or a microbrewery beer that will serve as fuel for the adventures to come.
The journalist was welcomed by Explore Nordegg & Abraham Lake.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team of Task, relating to marketing. Writing the Task did not participate.